in short…
Magnus Nilsson is back - together with Frida Nilsson and Daniella Rebelo
a charming guesthouse in Båstad, a historic seaside resort
with comfort food and a generous breakfast
Although this recommendation isn’t actually in Copenhagen, the journey of just about two hours to Sweden’s Kattegat coast is absolutely worth the effort!
This guesthouse has fifteen lovingly furnished rooms.
There’s an open bakery that smells temptingly of cinnamon.
And in the restaurant with its wood-burning fireplace, though there are no Michelin stars to shine this time, the food - deliberately kept simple - still has that certain Magnus Nilsson flavour.
The name „ Furuhem“ basically means „a house amongst the pines”.
And even though there really are some beautiful old pine trees here in Båstad, it’s the pale blue water and the many boats that define this historic seaside resort even more.
And so we can soak up a bit of sea air before warming up in the on-site sauna, reading a book in the cosy communal areas or curling up in our bed beneath the crisp linen sheets.
Here we can completely unwind, so that afterwards, feeling refreshed and re-energised, we can dive back into new Copenhagen adventures.
In the summer of 2019, we visited Magnus Nilsson’s Fäviken with friends, right in the heart of picture-perfect Bullerby-Sweden.
It was, in fact, our last chance to visit this two-Michelin-starred restaurant, with its enchanting accommodation, during midsummer.
After all the following winter was to be the last in which Magnus would cook there, before he devoted himself, for the time being, to cultivating heirloom apple varieties in southern Sweden.
To this day, our stay at Fäviken remains one of the most wonderful experiences we’ve had in connection with our beloved passion for food.
And that’s not just because of the exciting 29-course meal we enjoyed there.
The whole place exuded a love of Swedish craftsmanship, Swedish nature and Swedish culinary art - in every detail.
So it’s hardly any surprise that we were drawn to the place as soon as possible where, from this year once again, we find a kitchen and a place to stay under the direction of Magnus Nilsson - in collaboration with chef Frida Nilsson (who just happens to share the same surname) and sommelière Daniella Rebelo.
Together, they aren’t chasing Michelin stars, but aim to keep good produce affordable, support local craftsmanship and be an everyday meeting place for neighbours and friends.
What Furuhem nevertheless has in common with Fäviken is the incredible attention to detail in every aspect.
Be it the embroidered red ‘F’ on the linen napkins in the evening or the pink-printed Furuhem-paper beneath the artfully twisted cinnamon bun at breakfast, the floral arrangements as well as the cute knife-stands.
The meat from the „retired dairy cow“ had already made an appearance at Fäviken.
At Furuhem, it also comes from regional farmers.
Here, it’s presented in a more down-to-earth way, but it’s just as tasty.
And the salted cherries served as a snack are so delicious and surprising that it’s simply clear - someone creative is cooking here.
The Spettekaka meringue, which has been spinning over the fire since midday in preparation for dessert, is a traditional Swedish treat.
Just as at Fäviken, Furuhem places the utmost importance on Swedish heritage and artisanal quality.
The porcelain, for instance, comes from the Stockholm-based manufacturer Gustafsberg and received its pink rim exclusively for Furuhem.
The pretty glasses are made by Skruf’s glassworks, established in 1897.
Bed linen and table linen are produced at the Vävaren linen mill right here in Båstad.
And the exquisite hand-woven rugs are by Märta Måås Fjetterström, also from Båstad.
Not surprisingly, we are particularly fond of the soft colours throughout the house.
The rare oil-bound egg tempera used here comes from the Swedish manufacturer Ovolin, a member of staff tells us.
This traditional paint takes up to three months to cure. That patience is rewarded with a wonderful texture and exceptional depth of colour.
Anyone who’s intrigued by this and shares our enthusiasm will love this trip to Sweden.
Those who are looking for a luxurious bathroom (the house, which is over a hundred years old, only allows tiny en-suite bathrooms) or who wants a large TV, minibar and air conditioning should perhaps not make their way here.
The room description reads more like this:
original varnished spruce floors
functioning original tiled fireplace
custom-made King-size bed from Mattssons
linen bed sheets, towels and bathrobes made especially for us by Vävaren i Båstad
desk, chair and dresser from Norrgavel
vintage rug and Hans Agne Jakobsson lighting
small but beautiful bathroom with shower
high ceilings…
If, like us, you feel right at home with exactly that, then Furuhem is the perfect place for you.
