Isar Mist, Dallmayr Treats and a Hint of the South Seas
Our Perfect Winter Day in Munich
It's almost a given that a summer day in Munich can be perfect.
But today, let's dream of a perfect winter day when Munich feels incredibly cozy.
Breakfast and Winter Flowers
Coming into Alexa von Harder's café on a still-dark winter morning is incredibly homely.
The cozy pastel-colored room beckons through the lovingly decorated window.
Cake boxes in rose stack up against the wall.
Under the warm light of the pretty glass displays, croissants and buns, artful cakes and tarts, cookies, and confectioneries lie invitingly.
In this little paradise, we enjoy breakfast with pancakes and berries, Clubsandwich with vegetable crisps and toasted sourdough bread, from Julius Brantner, with avocado and fried eggs.
Afterward, we hop on the tram and ride one stop to Max-Weber-Platz.
The lovely vases on Alexa's tables, with their delicate flowers, have inspired us.
Now we want to pop into our favorite flower shop.
"Blumen die leben" is the enchanting store's name.
Not everyone stays long enough in Munich to take one of the beautiful bouquets or arrangements, but the finely curated accessories, stationery, wreaths, and decorations can easily survive the journey back home.
From the Isar Meadows to the Old Town
From here, we walk warmly bundled up to the Maximilianeum, the magnificent seat of the Bavarian State Parliament.
During Christmas time, the lights of a large Christmas tree sparkle in the central arched window.
Then the Renaissance facade looks like a huge nostalgic advent calendar.
From the elevated Maximilianeum, we have a fabulous view over Maximilianstraße to the Munich old town skyline, from Theatinerkirche to Frauenkirche, while the Isar rushes over the large weir below us.
When we stroll over Maximiliansbrücke into the city center, Munich almost feels a bit French.
The Isar flowing past St. Luke's Church and the Praterinsel with the Deutsches Museum reminds us a bit of the Seine by Île Saint-Louis. The same delicate river mist acts as a mysterious soft focus.
Munich’s Elegant Boulevard
On the far side of the Isar River, the majestic Maximilianstraße stretches before us.
Named after King Maximilian II, this grand boulevard owes its unique character to an architectural competition he launched in 1850.
His vision was to blend elements from various historical styles to create an entirely new architectural language for the 19th century.
As we stroll along Maximilianstraße, we pass not only world-famous couture boutiques and the prestigious Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten, but also landmarks like the Ethnological Museum Fünf Kontinente and the National Opera House. Each step takes us through a chapter of architectural history.
Following the destruction of World War II, the city of Munich fortunately made the decision to reconstruct many of the historic facades, preserving the street’s old-world grandeur for future generations to admire.
A Gourmet Paradise
Arriving in Munich’s old town, we’re immediately drawn to one of its most iconic facades.
Recognizable across Germany from a well-loved coffee commercial with its catchy tune is the stucco-adorned storefront of Dallmayr.
With roots tracing back to 1700, this gourmet haven is an beloved institution in Munich.
It might not be a hidden gem, but the shopping experience is so delightful, we simply have to recommend it.
We pick up one of their fine teas, along with matching tea biscuits.
And since we’re planning a sort of winter picnic later, we also grab a selection of savory delicacies.
For those who don’t have a thermos on hand to carry their tea, the neighboring Manufactum offers some pretty nice options.
Christmas Market and Viktualienmarkt
If it’s Christkindlmarkt season, we can’t miss a stroll to Marienplatz, framed by the Old and New Town Halls.
Even the “New” Town Hall has stood here since 1909, while the Old Hall has been a part of Munich’s history since 1475, marking the line of the former city fortifications.
Just a few steps away lies the Viktualienmarkt, one of the most charming markets we’ve ever encountered.
From Viktualienmarkt, it’s only a short walk to the picture-perfect Gärtnerplatz.
But first, we warm up at Sama Sama with a rich dark hot chocolate, and if we’re lucky, there are their irresistible cream-filled mini profiteroles on offer.
Bookworms and Christmas Cards
On the way to Gärtnerplatz, we stop by Wortwahl, a delightful bookstore where we always find more than just great reads.
Their stationery section is a treasure trove, perfect for picking up some Christmas cards to send to loved ones.
Today, however, we resist the urge to linger too long in the Glockenbachviertel, as we’re headed toward the next part of our day.
Winter Magic
A short break at Hotel Cortina gives us time to brew our Dallmayr tea and gear up for the enchanting setting of Nymphenburg Palace.
Located in the city’s west, the baroque royal palace and its sprawling park create a fairytale backdrop for a bit of winter magic.
We rent skates at the frozen Nymphenburg Canal, gliding across the ice until we’ve truly earned our Dallmayr picnic and hot tea.
Should the weather refuse to cooperate and the canal isn’t frozen solid, we quickly pivot to Plan B.
We take our picnic to the English Garden and trying our hand at Bavarian curling at the Chinese Tower.
Christmas Movie and Cocktails
By now, we’re ready to rest our feet!
And the early evening feels like the perfect time to enjoy a film at the Astor Lounge, the tiny cinema tucked inside the Hotel Bayerischer Hof.
Conveniently, dinner and drinks are just a few steps away at Trader Vic’s, the South Seas bar that whisks us from Bavarian winter straight to a tropical paradise.
In the cozy 1950s tiki setting, a Menehune Mai Tai and Crab Rangoon warm us to the core, closing out our perfect day in the most delightful way.
